In the mid-1800s the Hudson River Valley became a popular place for artistic expression as well as relaxation because of its lovely and dynamic topography. The river is flanked by terraces and mountains that are intersected by dramatic palisades and escarpments. Over the course of the 50 years (1825-1875) that the Hudson River school of painting thrived, landscape painters often documented Hudson River scenery, and generally painted in studios and homes in New York City, located at the mouth of the river, and in the valleys along the Hudson. At the same time, wealthy New York families, drawn by the enchantment of the Hudson River Valley, were establishing second homes there. For this tour, start in New York City, where many Hudson River School masterpieces are exhibited, then move north through the Hudson River Valley to view the inspiring landscapes, tour several artists' homes and studios, and visit the historic homes of some of our nation's leaders.
New York City provides a wonderful feast of fine dining, shopping, theater, and world-class museums. Discover the extraordinary collection of American art at The Metropolitan Museum of Art (1000 Fifth Ave at 82nd St, Manhattan, 10028; 212/535-7710). One of the oldest cultural institutions in the city, the Met was founded in 1870 by a group of leaders in business, the arts, and philosophy, whose goal was to make art and art education accessible to more Americans. Tour the museum's American Wing, which includes a grand view of the Hudson River School landscapes that helped shape our nation's image. Across Central Park at The New-York Historical Society (2 West 77th St, Manhattan, 10024; 212/873-3400) the Hudson River School collection dates back to 1858, when it was acquired from the New-York Gallery of Fine Arts. See the fabulous paintings and sketches by Cole, Durand, Church and others in the Society's Dexter Hall gallery and the Henry Luce III Center for the Study of American Culture.
Just a short drive or subway ride away, The Brooklyn Museum of Art (200 Eastern Pkwy, Brooklyn, 11238; 718/638-5000), the second largest art museum in the U.S., houses a permanent collection containing more that one million objects, ranging from ancient Egyptian artifacts to contemporary masterpieces. A bold reinstallation of works from the permanent collection, called American Identities: A New Look, fills seven large galleries with works that expand the definition of American art, including an extensive Hudson River School collection.
An art and estate tour of New York State must include the Hudson Valley National Heritage Area (www.hudsonvalleyheritagearea.com) where historic settings and gorgeous landscapes are found around every corner. Explore the Hudson Valley's scenic wine trails, stay at one of the many superb bed & breakfasts in the region, and be sure to visit some of the local museums that showcase Hudson Valley culture.
This part of the tour starts about 10 miles north of New York City, on the east side of the river, crisscrosses the historic Hudson River, and then continues to Albany, about 150 miles north of New York City.
In Hastings-on-Hudson, visit Ever Rest, (25 Cropsey Lane, Hastings-on-Hudson, 10706; 914/478-7990), the home and studio of Jasper Cropsey, one of the most famous artists of the Hudson River School (open by appointment only). Next, go north on the Saw Mill River Parkway to Route 287 East, and then take Route 684 north to SUNY Purchase College. On campus, the Neuberger Museum of Art, (735 Anderson Hill Road, Purchase, 10577; 914/251-6100), houses an exciting collection of 20th-century modern and contemporary art.
Return to Interstate 287, and take the Route 9 North exit to the town of Sleepy Hollow, where tours depart from Philipsburg Manor (Route 9, Tarrytown/Sleepy Hollow, 10591; 914/631-9491) for Kykuit, the home of the Rockefeller family for four generations. The elegant estate has an impressive collection of 20th-century sculpture, along with terraced gardens and breathtaking views of the Hudson River.
Follow Route 287 to cross the Hudson on the Tappan Zee Bridge. Take the Palisades Interstate Parkway north to the Bear Mountain exit. At the circle, take Route 9W North, and follow signs to Highland Falls and the United States Military Academy at West Point (Route 9W North, West point, 10996; 845/938-2638). Park at the Visitor Center and visit the West Point Museum, which maintains a lovely collection of landscapes, some by Hudson River School artists, including Robert Walter Weir, who was the Academy's drawing instructor for 42 years. From the Visitor Center, take the bus tour, which passes scenic Trophy Point, a popular vantage point for Hudson River School artists.
Next, take Route 9W north to Angola Road and follow signs to the Storm King Art Center (Old Pleasant Hill Rd, Mountainville, 10953; 845/534-3115), the largest sculpture park in the country. This museum celebrates the relationship between art and nature on 500 acres of landscaped lawns, fields and woodlands. Modern sculptures by internationally known artists form part of a visual fabric that includes the immediate surroundings as well as the distant landscapes. The sculptures are also affected by changes in light and weather, so each visit brings a new experience.
Continue north on 9W to the city of Newburgh, to visit Washington's Headquarters (84 Liberty Street, Newburgh, 12550; 845/562-1195). The grounds provided Hudson River School artists with a sweeping view of Newburgh Bay, Bannerman Island and Storm King Mountain. Raphael Hoyle's Washington's Headquarters at Newburgh is displayed in nearby Crawford House, an 1830s English Country-style house museum located at 189 Montgomery Street, Newburgh, 12550 (845/561-2585).
Return to Route 9W, head north and continue to the Mid-Hudson Bridge. Cross the river and continue on Route 44/55 East into Poughkeepsie. At the sign for Vassar College, turn right onto Raymond Avenue. The campus houses the Frances Lehman Loeb Art Center (124 Raymond Ave, Poughkeepsie, 12603; 845/437-5237) whose diverse collection includes both Hudson River School and New York School artists.
Return to Route 44/55 heading west, and just before the Mid-Hudson Bridge, turn right for the exit for Route 9 North. Just north of Poughkeepsie is Hyde Park, home to the Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site, the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum, Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site, and Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site.
The Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site contains Springwood, the home of America's only four-term President. The Presidential Library and Museum, part of the National Archives, is adjacent to Springwood. Opened by FDR himself in 1941, it is the nation?s first presidential library and the only one used by a sitting president. The Museum?s permanent and changing exhibits explore the lives and times President and Mrs. Roosevelt., the New Deal, and World War II.
Nearby is Val-Kill, the Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site. The only National Historic Site dedicated to a First Lady, Val-Kill welcomes visitors as Mrs. Roosevelt welcomed her many guests. Visitors may tour Mrs. Roosevelt's Val-Kill Cottage and enjoy the lovely gardens and grounds on the site.
At the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, the Vanderbilt Estate is perhaps the best, most intact example of the types of estates constructed by wealthy industrialists in the 19th century. The fully furnished, 54-room mansion is placed in a wondrous landscape with breathtaking views of the Hudson River and the distant Catskill Mountains. A tour offers a glimpse into a past world known by only an elite few.
The Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site, Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site, and the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site are all units of the National Park System and are administered as The Roosevelt-Vanderbilt National Historic Sites. Entrance is at 4097 Albany Post Rd, in Hyde Park, 12538 (845/229-9115).
After visiting Hyde Park, continue north to the village of Rhinebeck, then turn left onto Route 9G (north) and proceed toward Greenport. Follow signs to Olana, (Rte 9G, Hudson, 12534; 518/828-0135). The magnificent views from the mountaintop setting of Olana, the grand Moorish-style villa on the former estate of Frederic Edwin Church, provided inspiration for this Hudson River School painter.
If your schedule permits, continue north on Route 9G, cross the Hudson River at the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, and head into the town of Catskill. Visit Cedar Grove (218 Spring Street, Catskill, 12414; 518/943-7465), the former home of Thomas Cole, called the father of the Hudson River School of Art. From Catskill, go west on Route 23A to Haines Falls to see Kaaterskill Falls, a celebrated scenic site for many of the other Hudson River School artists. Nearby, at the North/South Lake State Campground (518/357-2289) on Route 18, explore the former site of the Catskill Mountain House. Perched on the edge of the Catskill escarpment, the area provides a spectacular view of the Hudson Valley.
From Catskill, drive north on the NYS Thruway (I-87), and take Exit 23 for Albany. Proceed north on I-787 to the Broadway/Downtown exit (#4). Follow signs to turn right onto Broadway. The first building on your right will be the former Hudson Dayline Ticket office, now the Hudson Harbor Steakhouse. Located on the Hudson shoreline (now inland), it served passengers of the steamboats that traveled between New York City and Albany.
Just north on Broadway, is an architecturally striking group of three buildings that now house the central administration of the State University of New York. The largest one, designed by architect Marcus T. Reynolds, was based on the Cloth Guild Hall, a huge Flemish Gothic structure in Ypres, Belgium. The building was erected in 1915 as the headquarters for the Delaware and Hudson Railroad that plied the western shore of the Hudson River. The complex?s south tower annex was commissioned in 1918 by the editor of the Albany Evening Journal, and the third building served as the U.S. Customs House and Post Office in 1884.
Continue on Broadway, then turn left onto State Street. Up the hill ahead of you, is the impressive New York State Capitol, an elaborate structure inspired by the Hotel de Ville in Paris. The Capitol's various styles reflect its complicated history: it took more than 30 years to complete and involved the efforts of four architects. At the top of the hill on State Street, bear right as you pass the Romanesque-style Albany City Hall, designed by H.H. Richardson. Then, make a left turn onto Elk Street.
Proceed two blocks to the corner of Elk and Dove Street for the parking lot of the Albany Institute of History and Art (125 Washington Avenue, Albany, 12210; 518/463-4478). The Institute was founded in 1791 and has recently undergone a major renovation and expansion. The Landscape that Defined America: The Hudson River School is a dramatic installation of 25 of the Institute's finest Hudson River School paintings displayed in two striking galleries. The exhibit includes a computer station with links to related websites. Be sure to enjoy the Institute's many other inspiring exhibits as part of your visit.
Return to the New York State Thruway (I-87) and head south to return to New York City, or continue your stay in Albany, and visit the Empire State Plaza Art Collection and the New York State Museum (Madison Ave, Albany, 12230.)
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