Location: Northwestern Nebraska from the Wyoming border to central Nebraska at Valentine
Length: 200 miles (321.9 km)
Time To Allow: 4–6 hours


Description/Highlights/Points of Interest

Bridges to Buttes Byway journeys through diverse topography and distinctive landscapes. From rolling sandhills through the Pine Ridge and the Nebraska National Forest onto plateaus from which you can see the Black Hills and into neighboring states, travelers along this byway will experience the sites, solitude and vastness that early travelers and settlers felt as they first saw this region. The eastern end of this byway conjures up memories of old western movies, the rolling prairie dotted with horses, cattle and genuine, conventional cowboys and cowgirls. The byway offers a number of sites featuring Native American ceremonies, prehistoric fossils, historical frontier military posts and extensive working ranches found in the panhandle of Nebraska.

Suggested Itinerary

Traveling east along the Bridges to Buttes Byway, you'll be driving parallel to the Cowboy Trail, a 320-mile (512 km) long trail project from Norfolk to Chadron that gives abandoned railroad lines a new lease on life as hiking and biking trails. The Cowboy Trail is being developed by the Rails to Trails Conservancy and the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission. Railroad enthusiasts can catch glimpses of this region's colorful railroad past at the many local museums along the byway.

It's a wide-open landscape where cattle outnumber people. The Sandhills is a 19,000 square mile (49,400 sq. km) area of grass-stabilized sand dunes that sit atop the Ogallala Aquifer. This area, which is the largest of its kind in the world, is renowned for its gentle rivers meandering through pine-studded canyons, waterfalls and an endless ocean of prairie grasses alongside America's largest hand-planted forest. The sandhills are also known for cattle ranches of gigantic proportions and wildlife refuges dedicated to protecting and preserving the sandhill wildlife. Up-close views of ranching, cowboys, Native American history, wildlife viewing opportunities, cowboy poetry, storytelling and art await the visitor to this quiet and seemingly undisturbed region.

Often referred to as the "biological crossroads of the Great Plains," the 30-mile (48 km) stretch of Niobrara River east of Valentine, is of great biological importance. Because of the Niobrara's striking scenery, recreational use and biological diversity, a 70-mile (112 km) segment of the river east of Valentine was designated a National Scenic River in May 1991. The Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge allows visitors a chance to view up-close its resident herd of buffalo.

Smith Falls State Park is located 15 miles (24 km) northeast of Valentine on Highway 12. A National Historic Bridge across the Niobrara River provides access for visitors to walk to Nebraska's highest waterfall, Smith Falls. The falls are created by a small, spring-fed creek that tumbles 70 feet (21m) over a rock ledge to the Niobrara Valley below. The Jim MacAllister Nature Trail alerts hikers to the diversity of ecological systems present in the valley, which exists nowhere else in North America. Park entry permit required.

Follow Highway 97 for 28 miles (45 km) southwest of Valentine, and lodge or camp overnight at the Merritt Reservoir State Recreation Area. This sparkling reservoir blocks the Snake River and contains almost 3,000 acres (1,200 hectares) of water.

One-and-a-half miles (2.4 km) north and two miles (3 km) East of Merriman along Highway 20 is Arthur Bowring Sandhills Ranch State Historical Park, the preservation site of a working cattle ranch. The ranch house, outbuildings and visitor center contain displays devoted to the extraordinary careers of Arthur and Eve Bowring and ranching in the sandhills. Arthur was a state legislator, and Eve was the first Nebraska woman to enter Congress.

The Museum of the Fur Trade is located three miles (5 km) east of Chadron on Highway 20. Trappers and traders first blazed most trails in the West. This world-class museum located on picturesque Bordeaux Creek near the old Fort Pierre-Fort Laramie Trail features extensive and priceless exhibits of items from international fur trade, a reconstructed 1837 trading post and an Indian garden.

The Pine Ridge National Recreation Area, southwest of Chadron, is open year-round to campers, hikers and mountain bikers — but not motorized vehicles! The Oglala National Grassland, north of Harrison, features almost 95,000 acres (38,000 hectares) of prairie grasses that provide hunting in-season, hiking, and nature study in the high country of Western Nebraska. Within the grassland is the Hudson-Meng Bison Bonebed, a kind of prehistoric bison murder-mystery: whatdunnit? Over 600 bison died near an ancient spring 10,000 years ago. Were they stampeded by early Paleo-Indian hunters, trapped by a raging prairie fire or struck by lighting? The answers are still not clear, but it's a fascinating stop! Visitors are able to watch the on-going dig for a small admission fee.

Four miles (6 km) north on Highway 20, turn west onto Toadstool Road, follow signs 15 miles (24 km) to Toadstool Geologic Park. The moon-like landscape of the Badlands is an unusual setting for a picnic. Use the self-guided trail brochure to explore the area's fascinating geology year-round.

The Warbonnet Battlefield and Yellow Hair Monument commemorate an encounter between the Fifth Cavalry from Fort Laramie and a group of Cheyenne Indians on July 17, 1876, near the confluence of Warbonnet and Jim Creek where the waters become Hat Creek. The Cheyenne were attempting to join the victors from the Battle of the Little Bighorn, which had occurred three weeks earlier. The only casualty of the Warbonnet battle was the Cheyenne warrior, Yellow Hair, who was killed by Wild Bill Cody.

Three miles (5 km) west of Crawford on U.S. 20 is Fort Robinson State Park, the perfect destination for an entire vacation. Visitors can stay where blue-coated cavalrymen once bunked, and where the great chief Crazy Horse was killed by a soldier's bayonet. Fort Robinson was also home to the Buffalo Soldiers, German prisoners during World War II, the world's largest quartermaster remount depot, war dog training corps and the location of the Cheyenne Outbreak. Activities include trail rides, historic tours, cookouts, swimming, trout fishing, crafts, hiking, jeep rides, stagecoach rides and more. Park grounds open year-round for day use, hiking and camping, mountain biking, cross-country skiing and hunting in season. Cabins, lodge, modern facilities, and big-game firearm and wild turkey season. Park entry permit required.

From Harrison, drive 22 miles (35 km) south on Highway 29 to the Agate Fossil Beds National Monument to see fossil beds with 19-million-year-old bones. Agate Fossil Beds tell the story of "Captain" James Cook — a former professional hunter, guide, and Army scout and owner of Agate Springs Ranch. For 50 years, the Agate Springs Ranch was a haven for Indian visitors such as Red Cloud. Cook welcomed and fed his guests, and the Indians gave Cook presents. In time, these gifts became a sizable and important collection of Native American artifacts. The impressive collection, which includes paleontology exhibits, is now on permanent display in the Agate Fossil Beds Visitor Center.

For additional information about this Byway, contact:
Agate Fossil Beds National Monument
Museum of the Fur Trade